Find Your Way to Atlas Bistro
It’s always intriguing when a friend demands that you must eat at a certain restaurant, especially when they are animated in demonstrating the reasons why. This was our initial reasoning of visiting Atlas Bistro.
Our friend Ricky goes back with the owner Todd, who is from Massachusetts like me. Ricky knows the place, so when you walk into Atlas with him, it’s like the king has returned to his castle.
That aside, Todd opened Atlas 25 years ago and it’s one of the Valley’s premier restaurants, known for its seasonal tasting menu and that it’s BYOB. Todd has Atlas Wines, which is connected to the restaurant and is a vino’s dream store.
The night we first dined at Atlas was an experience that we’ll never forget. Todd and his manager Oscar were like old friends, the wine flowed, and Chef Jabari’s food was brilliant, with subtle refinements that enlightened each dish.
I knew we’d return, which is what we did a few weeks later, just prior to their summer shutdown and the impending birth of our baby. Our experience was just as special as the first time.
Fast forward to now, we realized we haven’t been in almost a year because our lovely daughter was born last July and with that comes sacrifice. Alas, we must celebrate Mother’s Day at Atlas!
We entered Atlas and were immediately greeted by Oscar, who despite being a Liverpool supporter, is wonderful and it was great catching up with him. If you’ve never been to Atlas, expect to spend a couple of hours there, not just for the courses, but for the wine, conversation, and the post-meal realization that life is beautiful before heading home.
We brought a 2014 Quintessa to join us for dinner, and it paired perfectly with the evening’s tasting menu. Dinner began with oysters topped with a zesty mignonette and fried shallots nestled within the shell. Each oyster was fresh and vibrant, a strong lead-in to the exciting flavors that followed throughout the night.
Our server Mason then brought over espresso-sized mugs of tomato gazpacho, a welcome addition on an unusually hot May night. The chilled soup carried a softer acidity than the oysters while remaining bright and refreshing enough to awaken the palate. Mason was a delight throughout the evening, engaging and excited to see us return as we exchanged stories about the “fun” adventures of parenting a 10-month-old.
With the opening bites completed, the first official course arrived: Spanish octopus charred over hummus infused with feta alongside tomatoes, onions, and peppers. The octopus offered a nice snap before giving way to tenderness, though the hummus stole the show. Most hummus is faint, but the additions of feta and chorizo dressing created an enjoyable and lasting Mediterranean flavor.
Next came a fresh beet carpaccio salad featuring arugula, romaine, frisée, fennel, pistachios, and bursts of pomegranate. The dish reminded me of summer in New England. What tied everything together was the orange and spicy sherry dressing, which brought both sweetness and a lively zing that elevated the greens.
Atlas also offers additions to the tasting menu, which we always say yes to. Alongside the oysters, we added a seared foie gras. Generous portion and sourced from the Hudson Valley, it could have served as dessert on its own because it’s savory composition. Served with pieces of bundt cake and carrot cake streusel, the foie gras was decadent and satisfying.
The pasta course featured cavatelli cooked perfectly al dente with sausage and a honey chipotle sauce. The sauce carried a zing, revealing different layers of flavor with each bite and making the dish increasingly intriguing as the course went on.
The fourth course was a filet accompanied by a mushroom bordelaise sauce that was terrific. Alongside it were a celery root arancini and crispy cauliflower florets, which offered a delicious alternative to traditional fried potato sides. The filet was perfect with slight grill marks and butter-like tenderness. I could eat this steak every day.
Lastly was dessert and although the foie gras was a preamble to it, we were ready to indulge one last time. Arriving was a chocolate brownie, tied together with a chocolate mousse, vanilla whipped cream, and raspberries. Thankfully the portion wasn’t overwhelming because we were already full, but each bite provided the perfect ending to another excellent experience at Atlas.
Words do little justice to the food and service at Atlas. The pricing is sensible for a tasting experience of this quality, and the intimate, relaxing space sets the tone for the evening ahead. It’s a great setting for what you’re about to embark on, a fantastic journey of culinary excellence, captivating conversations, and a fulfilling night that makes you remember to visit soon, even if you had a baby.
Atlas Bistro - Within Wilshire Plaza, 2515 N Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, AZ
Book reservations via Tock: https://www.exploretock.com/atlasbistro/
