Living the Good Life at Sinatra
Las Vegas has evolved. What was once a playground of reasonably priced meals and comps designed to keep you at the tables has become one of the most dynamic food cities in the country. You can still find excess here, but now it shows up on the plate as much as it does on the casino floors and nightclubs.
Vegas is an adopted home, as we’re headquartered there, and while cities like New York and Chicago set the gastronomic standard, Vegas belongs in that conversation. The range of cuisine is staggering and it’s executed at a high level across the board. Living on the west coast had me yearning for a great classical Italian restaurant and while I found really good ones; Madeo in West Hollywood, Piero’s in Vegas, I never found one that fully satisfied, until I sat down at Sinatra.
Tucked inside Encore at Wynn on Las Vegas Boulevard, Sinatra is easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. It sits slightly removed from the chaos, which feels intentional. That separation sets the tone for what ends up being a refined, comfortable, and deeply enjoyable dining experience.
The bar is where Sinatra reveals itself. It’s intimate without feeling tight, lively without being overwhelming. A single television above plays a rotation of Frank Sinatra films or if there’s a big game, while you get a sense of Frank’s celebrity by seeing the his pictures and memorabilia scattered around the restaurant. There’s an easy rhythm to the room as the hosts gently settle guests in, conversations start naturally, and before you know it, everyone is best friends. It’s a special place where maybe the characters in one of Frank’s movies are watching us play out at the bar.
If you’re fortunate, you’ll find yourself in the hands of KeAo behind the bar. She’s exceptional, warm, intuitive, and deeply knowledgeable, plus one of the nicest people you’ll ever meet. One minute you’re discussing wine, the next you’re talking about life. It’s hospitality in its best form. She’s surrounded by fellow stars, Greg, Rich, and Ashley, who keep the room moving seamlessly. Even at its busiest, chaos never looked so refined.
The wine list obviously leans heavily Italian, with depth across regions and varietals, alongside thoughtful Old and New World selections. I usually ask for any new wines and then a few Barolos appear to taste before I finish my sentence. Not a bad way to begin our journey.
The menu from Executive Chef Theo Schoenegger, balances tradition with just enough flexibility. There’s a clear respect for classic Italian cooking, which shows immediately. Chef Theo cooked for Ol’ Blue Eyes while in New York, which ties the entire story together.
To start, the polpettine are tender and flavorful, though I’d like more sauce with them. The buffalo mozzarella is clean and refreshing, and the tuna tartare also offers a lighter option, as our eyes are on the entrée prize. The octopus is another strong choice, simple, balanced, and a good signal of what’s to come.
Across the main courses, the consistency is impressive. If seafood is your choice, then the halibut, scallops, branzino, and salmon, are all prepared with precision and freshness that makes you realize you’re in the desert and not Cape Cod. The chicken marsala is excellent, but again, I wish for more sauce. Italians have a law that bread is to be in the non-fork hand and to soak every remnant of sauce in a dish, to which I strictly adhere to. If you come here for steak, you’ll still eat well, but I’ll roll my eyes. Both the ribeye and filet are fantastic, accompanied by Italian red wine reductions.
Moving on, there are few places that make an exceptional fra diavolo dish because it’s difficult to get the consistency of the sauce and spice levels correct. It mustn’t be thick or overly red and the spice should zing you without needing an fire extinguisher. A restaurant that gets it right is Vinoteca di Monica in the North End of Boston. Sinatra is also a made man in this small fra diavolo syndicate with their lobster fra diavolo dish.
Here it’s balanced, the sauce has just enough spice without overwhelming you, and the consistency is exactly where it should be. The lobster is generous, the fettuccini is right at home within the sauce, and somehow the dish remains light enough to keep eating despite its grand portion. Fork in my right hand, bread in my left reveling in the fra diavolo, which I realize I may be addicted to it. Formerly a dish that would come on special now and then, it has made the menu on a full time basis, which is music to my ears and stomach.
We move onto the veal parmigiana, which is my favorite and their signature dish for a reason. A large, perfectly prepared veal chop, finished with a Nonna-reminiscent red sauce and melted parmigiana, it delivers on every level. My prayers for abundant sauce are answered in this dish. Each bite is complete, especially with a side of pasta alongside it. Each taste is tender, the red sauce offers the balance of zest with a little acidity, which is countered by the parmigiana. Being a larger dish, if it’s your first visit, this is the dish to share. Besides, the tiramisu is worth saving room for.
What you’ll most enjoy at Sinatra isn’t on the menu or the walls, but it’s the realization of being a part of a wonderful evening. Yes, it’s at Wynn’s Encore so there’s a premium, but you see the expressions of joy on people’s faces on having a nice night out, relishing the conversations with new friends, appreciating the stellar service from their servers and bartenders, and the pictures taken of the plates because the evening means more than food. You leave Sinatra with the memories of a great experience and meal, eager to return soon. It’s a restaurant that lives up to Frank’s phrase that “nothing but the best is good enough for me.”
Sinatra - Located in Encore at the Wynn Resort - 3131 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV
Make reservations via OpenTable here: https://www.opentable.com/sinatra-encore-at-wynn-las-vegas